Overseaming sewing-machine.



R. G.- WOODWARD. OVERSEAMING' SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 9, 1901. 920,804, Patented May 4, 1909 3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

WNW/118815.51-

I I ZNIVENTOR M "WVM R; G; WUOD'WARD. OVERSEAMING SEWING MACHINE. "A PPLIOATION FILED NOV. 9, 1901.

Patented May 4, 1909.

s sums-5111mm.

[wan /ole R. G. WOODWARD. OVERSEAMING SEWING MACHINE. APPLIOA'IIONTLLED Nov. '9, 1901.

Patented May 4, 1909.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

W/INASSS: I

' I d I ing the needle bar gate or frame, and thereby as rn onrrcn RUSSEL G. WOODWARD, OF WAUKEGAN, ILLINOIS, iASSIGNOR TO UNION-SPECIAL SEWING MACHINE 00., OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

OVERSEAMING SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed November 9, 1901. Serial No. 81,769.

To all whom it may concern..-

Be it known that I, RUssnL G. Wool)- WARD, a citizen of the United States, residing at'l/Vaukegan, in the county of Lake, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Overseaming Sewingll l achines, of which the following is a descrip tion, reference being had to the accompanyin drawing and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

My invention relates to an improvement in sewing machines, and particularly to overseaming machines'of the type used for making an overedge seam on knit goods, although. it will be understood that so far as certain features of the invention are concerned, they are applicable to other machines than those of the particular type herein shown, such as shown in the patent granted to Lansing Onderdonk and myself, Novemher 27th, 1906, No. 837,106.

The invention includes in general, means for var ing the width of the seam, with automatically adjustable pull-offs for the needle and looper threads.

The invention consists in the matters hereinafter described and referred to in the appended claims.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in 'which- Figure Tie a front elevation of a sewing machine, embodying my invention; Fig. 2 is a skeletonized rear view, showing the mechanism for operating the looper, and the me dle and looper thread pull-ofi's; Fig. 3 is a plan view of Fig.v 2; Fig. 4 is an elevation artly in section of the mechanism for shiftshifting the pull-offs; and Fig. 5' is a plan view of Fi 4. Fig. 6 is a detail in perspective, showing the bracket for supporting the eyelet 18.

In these drawings, A, represents thebed plate of the machine; B the standard; C the gooseneck; D the needle lever; E the needle ar; F the needle bar gate or frame, the parts being practically of usual construction.

G represents the trimmer which is arranged in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, and comprises upper and lower cooperating blades, with means operated from the main shaft for vibrating the upper blade, tically inbearings on a pivoted gate or frame The needle bar E, reciprocates ver- F, which may be swung outor in a limited amount to enable the needle to stitch nearer to or farther from the edge of the fabric. The stitch-forming mechanism includes the needle N, the looper L and spreader S, the latter 0 erating to seize a loop of needle thread elow the work plate, and carry it above the edge of the throat plate, in. position to beentered by the looper, which passes through said loop, and carries a loop of its own thread into position to be engaged by the needle in its next descent.

The looper movement, and needle thread take-up shown in the drawings are not of my invention, but the looper thread pull-off and take-up is of my invention, as is also the arrangement of making the pull-offs and takeu')s automatically adjustable, so that when t e width of the seam is varied, the su- )ply of thread will be automatically regulated.

Taking up now the looper thread take-up,

crank leverextends vertically and at its upper. end is connected with the mechanism which drives the looper shaft 6. Secured to the upper end of this upper arm 5, of the bell crank lever are two forwardly projecting fingers or arms 7, having shoulders S which extend between two stationary eyelets 9 upon the machine frame, through which stationary eyelets the looper thread 10 is guided. In a plane between these fingers or arms is a cast off plate or cam 11 pivoted, as shown, to the machine frame, and having a forked lower end 12 engaging a proection 13 on the lever which shifts the needfe head. As the two fingers or arms 7 move forward, they engage the looper thread which extends between the stationary eyelets and pu l off thread from the spool until such time as the t upper edge 14 of the cast off plate or arm 11 forces the thread out of engagement with the shoulders 8 on the fingers or arms, thus releasing the thread. This forward movement of the fingers or arms to pull off the thread from the spools, takes place while the looper is moving out of. the. needle loop, so. that when the looper begins to return to move into the needle loop, it has sufficient slack thread supplied it toform the stitch. When the needle head is shifted to make a wider seam, the upper edge of the cast ofi plate or arm is swung downwardly, so that in the forward movement. of the fingers. or arms the thread will not be cast ofi from the shoulders as quickly as when the cast off plate or arm is in normal position, and, therefore, more thread is supplied to the looper, thusallow ingifor the greater width of seam.

- eferring now to the needle thread takeup, atta'ched'to the block 15, in which the upper end of the looper shaft 6 is secured, is

a plate 16 projecting forward toward the front of the machine into a'path between a stationary eyelet -17 on the gooseneck of the machine and another pivoted eyelet 18 which is attached to and moves with, the needle bar head or gate. The forward end of this arm which is on the looper head is'provide'd with an eye or opening 19, through which the thread is' guided between said two' eyelets.

' From the pivoted eyelet above referred to,

the thread is uided to another stationary eyelet 20, on ftlie upper needle bar lug, and from there the thread extends to the eye of the needle in the usual way. The action of this needle thread take-up is as follows: As-

suming the needle to be in its raised position,

and just about to start downward, the looper at that time has passed into the needle loop. As the looper moves forward to carry its thread into position to be engaged by the needle in its descent, the forward end of the eyeleted arm-which moves. with the looper s aft, passes beyond the pivoted eyelet above referred to, which pivoted eyelet is, of course,

-1n operative"position to the machine and pulls off thread sufficient for the needle to use-up in its downward movement. When this amount has been pulled off, the looper meanwhile receding, 'the'pull-off arm r'noves back'toward its normal position, and when the needle ascends the eyeleted pull-off moves beyond the stationary eyelet on the goose-neck, and, therefore, takes up the slack in the needle thread caused by the ascent of said needle, thus enabling all the superfluous thread to be taken out and the stitch to be pro erly drawn up. The eyeleted pull be least resistance, and therefore, when the needle is going down, the thread is held taut and the movements of the eyeleted pull off be liond'the adjustable. eyelet, will operate to pu thread from-the supply, while wheri'the needle is ascending the thread is slack and" chine.

operate to draw thread from the point of is provided, whieh is pivoted to an arm 21 projecting from 'the goosencck, and at its lower end is connected by a link 22 with the upperneedle bar lug. when the needle bar gate or frame with the needle is shifted by means of the mechanism described, to take a wider bitejintp the goods, by means of this link connection, the upper end of the pivoted arm carrying the eyelet is swung toward the standard of the machine, and thus as the forward movement of the looper takes place, more thread will he pulled off than when the: needle bar gate is in the normal position shown in the drawings.

As a convenient means for shifting the needle head to vary the width of scam, and

with it automatically adjusting the pulhoifs,

I have provided t 1e mechanism shown in Figs. 4 and5, which mechanism forms the subject matter of another application, filed of even date herewith, Serial No. 81,766. This mechanism consists of a lever 23 pivoted upon a stud 24, projecting rearwardly from a lug 25, beneath the gooseneck of the ma- One arm of this lever extends toward the head of the machine, and is provided with a fork 26 at its forward end, which engages an inclined flat in 27, secured in a head 28 fastened to a ug 29 on the needle bar gate or frame. The opposite arm 30 extends towardithe right hand end of the machine, and is connected at its outer end through rod 31, with a treadle, within reach of the foot of the operator. Near its outer end this lever arm has a head 32, through which projects a bolt 33,.and an oppositely extending bolt 34 is threaded through the lower lug 35 on a yoke-36 secured to the machine frame. Between the head of the "lever arm and the ,lug on the yoke is a s ring 37, which-keeps the needle bar gate or 'rame in normal position, herein shown as making the narrower seam. Passing through the upper lug 38 onthe yoke is an adjusting stop screw 39, by varying which the normal POSI- tion'of the needle bar gate or frame may be varied, and by which also the width of the seam is varied. T his lever has the member 13 which engages the forked end 12 of the pivotedcast oii' plate or arm 11, to vary the poin't at which the cast off of the looper thread from the shoulders on the swinging firigferstakes place.

arious minor modifications and changes :may be made without departing from the spirit of iny invention.

I have designated this machine asan overseamin'g sewing machine and have referred to the'stiteh forming mechanism in the claims as "an overseammg stitch form-' ing mechanism. I' desire .itt'o be understood, however, thatI do not intend to re-. strict myself entirely to the use of the machine for making an overseam stitch on the" edge of a fabric,'as the invention is applicable to machines which might be used for embroidering or ornamenting the face of a the stitch forming mechanism, an additional member which la'ys threads upon the face of the fabric or over the edge thereof, as dis tinguished from a machine in which theneedle itself marks the entire width of the seam by laying the needle threads in a zig stitches upon t zag line on the face of the fabric. So 'far, however, as certain features of the invention are concerned, they might also be applicable to machines making a zig zag stitch. .lherefore, I have used a term still broader than overseaming in certain of the claims, namely, the term irregular by which is meant a stitch forming mechanism making a seam having lateral extent as distinguished from mere straightaway stitching.

Having thus described my'invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is sa 1. An oversea'ming sewing machine comprising a needle carrying athread and adapted to pass loops thereof through the fabric, complemental stitch-forming mechanism cooperating therewith to form a seam and including a member additional to the needle for depositing) threads upon the upper face of the'fabric eing sewed, means for shifting bodily, the working position of the needle with respect tothe edge of the seam, and means for automatically vary' the supply of thread as the width of the seam is varied; substantially as described.

2. An overseaming sewing machine, comprising a vertically reciprocating needle adapted to deposit a straightaway line of stitching upon the fabric, complemental stitch-forming mechanism cooperating therewith to form a seam and including a member additional to the needle for laying threads upon the upper face of the fabric, means for shifting bodily, the working posit-ion of the needle with respect to the edge of the seam,.and means for automatically regulating the supply of thread necessary to make the seam for various shifted positions of the needle; substantially as described.

3. An overseaming sewing machine, comprising a work support, a needle and complemental stitch-forming mechanism. co-

operating therewith, including devices co-* olpgrating with the needle above and below work sup ort for depositing binding e edge of the fabric, means for shifting bodily the working position of the needle with respect to the edge of tlie seam, andmeans for automatically varying the supply of thread'as the width. of the seam is varied; substantiall as described.

. 4.In'a sewi machine or makingirreg u'lar stitches, stitch-forming mechanism inscribed.

5. In an overedge sewing machine, the combinationwith a vertically reciprocating needle, complemental stitch-forming mechanism including, a device for carrying the thread OVBIf'i'llB edge of the fabric intoposie tion to be engaged by, the needle, means for moving the needle bodily, laterally to shift .its vertical working position with respect to the edge of the seam and thus varying the width of theseam, and means for automatically varying the supply of needle thread as the Width of the sea-mis varied; substantially asvdescribed.

,6. In a sewing machine for making overseamin'g stitches, means whereby the width of the seam may be varied, including a vertically reci rocating needle with means for shifting it bodily, laterally, with respect to the edge of the seam, and means for automatically varying the amount'of supply of thread, as the width of the seam varies;

"substantially as described.

7-. In an overseaming machine, stitchforming mechanism including a needle, a thread-carrying looper, and a spreader hook, means for shifting the position of the needle with respect to the edge of the seam, means for automatically varying the amount of needle thread supplied to the needle, and means for automaticallyregulating the amount of looper thread supplied to the looper as the needle is shifted; substantially as described. V

8. In an overseaming machine, stitchforming mechanism including a needle with means for imparting to it a vertical reciprocation, a looper and a spreader, means for shifting bodily the Working position of the needle with respect to the edge of the seam, and means for automatically varying the supply of needle thread simultaneously with the shifting of the needle, and means for operating the looper and spreader substantlally as described.

9. In an over-seaming machine, stitch- -forming mechanism including a-ne'edle with means for im arting to it a vertical reciprocation, a tlIread-carrying looper-and a spreader, means for shifting bodily the working position of the needle with respect to the edge of the seam, and means for automatically varying the lsupply. of needlethread and looper..threa d simultaneously with the shiftingof theneedle, and means for operating the looper and spreader; substantially as described. 7

ll). In an overseaming machine, stitchforming mechanism including a vertically reciprocating needle and means for operating it, a loopercooperating therewith, and arranged to oscillate across the line of the seam, a spreader, with means for operating it to cause it to take a loopv of needle thread and carry-it to position to be engaged by the looper, means for shifting the working pos'i-- tion of the needle, whereby the width ofthe seam isvaried, and means for regulating the supply of thread automatbaally simultaneously with the shifting of the'needle, and means for operating the looper and spreader; substantially as described.

11. In a sewing machine, in combination with the needle, means for shifting the working position thereof bodily to vary the width of the seam, a movable eyelet, -a stationary two stationary eyelets upon opposite sides thereof, one of which may be adjusted,- and means for adjusting said stationary eyelet. to increase or decre'ase the supply of thread while the machine is in operation; substantially as described.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with suitable stitclifo1'ining-mechanism, and

means for varying the width of the seam, a

combined automatic takeup and pull-oil,

including a movable member having asingle eye acting upon the needle thread to pull ed and" take up the same, and devices cooperating therewith, whereby the supply of thread is varied in accordance with the width of the seam; substantially as described.

. 14. Ina sewing machine for making overseaming stitches, a needle, means for verti cally reciprocating said needle and means for shifting its working position vith respect to the edge of the seam, a looper, an automatic pull-off acting on the needle thread, and an automatic pull-oil acting on the looper thread to vary the su ply of thread for the stitches,

. as the width ofthe seam is varied; substantially as described.

15. In an overse ammg sewing machine, stltch-formlng mechanlsm including a needle and means for operating it, a thread-carrying looper cooperating therewith, anda spreader with'mean's for operating itto cause it to take a loop of thread from below the work plate and carry it. into position to be engaged by one of the loop-taking devices, means for varying the position of the needle with respect to the edge of the fabric, to vary the width of the scam, and an automatically adjustablepull oil for the needle thread, ad-

'justable simultaneously with the adjustment of the needle; substantially as described.

16. In an overscaming sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, and means for operating it, a threadcarrying looper cooperating therewith, and a spreader, with means for operating it to cause it to take a loop of thread from below the work plate and carry it into position to be engaged by one of the loop-taking devices, means for va ing the position of the needle with resp to the edge of the fabric, to vary the width or the seam, and an automatically adjustable pull-oil tor the looper thread, adjustal'ile' simultaneously with the adjustment of the needle; substantially as described.

17, In an overseaming machine, stitchforming i'neehanism"includinga needle and means for operating it, a threadcarrying lcoper cooperating therewith, and a spreader with means for operating it to cause it to take a loop of thread from below the work plate and carte it into position to be engaged by one of the loop-taking devices, means for varying the position of the needle with re spect to the edge of the fabric, to vary the. width of the seam, and automatically ad jnstable pull-oils for the needle and looper threads, adjustable simultaneously with the ing automatically adjustable with the seam to the edge of the seam, thereby varying the width of the seam, and including a member in addition to the needle for laying threads upon the face of the fabric, and a pull-off for the locper thread with means for adjusting it automatically with the seam-adjusting mechanism; substantially asdescribed.

20. In an overseaming sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, cooperating to form stitches, including a needle and means for shifting its working position with respect to the edgelof the seam, thereby .varyingithe width of the seam, and including a member in addition to the needle for laying threads upon the face of the fabric, and a pull-oii for the looper threadf including stationary eyelets, a movable pull ofi, and a swinging lever movable with the seam-adjusting mechanism,

to vary the amount of thread pulled off substantially as described.

M 1 In an overseaming inacl1ine, stitchfo ming mechanism, cooperating to form stitches, and including a needle and means for shifting its working position With respect to the edge of the seam, and including a member in addition to the needle for laying threads upon the face of the fabric, and a piill-oii' for the looper thread, including stationary eyelets, a movable pull-oil, and a swinging east-oil movable with the seamad ustmg, mechanism; substantially as described.

22. In a sewing for-lining mechanism, cooperating to form stitches, and includinga needle and means for shifting its Working position with respect to the edge of the seam, said stitch-forming mechanism including a needle and a member in addition to the needle to lay threads upon the face of the fabri c, and a pull-ofi for the looper thread including stationary eyelets, a

, movable member reciproeatin in a plane betwefn the same, and a cast-o plate or cain arranged to. east oil the threadirom the movable member, with connections between the cast-off member, and the seanvvarrying mechanism for adjusting the position of the cast-oil plate or member; substantially as described.

23. In a sewing machine having stitch forming mechanism includinga vertically reciprocating needle, and including also a -threadmartying looper for depositing threads v upon the face of the iabrle, and includ ng also a thread-carr5ung looper for depositing threads upon the face of the fabric, means a for shifting said needle laterally with respect to the edge of the seam, a pull-ofi mechanism for the llooper thread, ,with means for automatic ally ad u sting the pull-oii, as the amount machine, having a stitch-v of looper thread required to make the stitch varies; substantially as described.

24. In a sewing machine having stitch forming mechanism including a needle with means for Vertically reciprocating it, and means for shifting its lateral position with respect to the edge of the seam, a threadcarrying looper, adapted-to oscillate across the line of the seam, and lay threads across the face of the fabric, and pull--ofi mechanisms for the needle and looper threads, With means for automatically adjusting both pullofl s, as the amount of thread re uired to make the stitch, varies; substantia y as described. q v

25. In a sewing machine for making irregular stitches, means whereby thesvidth of the seam may be varied including a needle Withmeans for shifting it laterally with respect to the edgeof the seam, and a cooperating looptakingfdevice, arranged to lay threads upon the face'of the fabric, devices for controlling the thread for the needle and loop-taking devices, means for automatically adjusting the oontrolling devices as the Width of the seam is varied to take up or pull oil thread for the requirements of the seam when varied in width; substantially as described.

26. In an overseaming sewing machine,

the combination with a stitch-forming mech- In testimony whereof I afiix my signature,

in presence of two Witnesses.

RUSSEL e. WOODWARD. Witnesses Cnns'rnn MQNEIL, EMMA KERN. 

